The concept behind MVC is great, but be prepared to loose virtually all the functionality of all the server controls you've used for so many years. I've only looked at the MVC implementation for about a week now, but the page lifecycle and view state are gone so these controls no longer function properly.
I was also stunned to find a number of examples containing a lot of logic code in the markup. That's right, 'if' and 'foreach' statements in the aspx files -- a horrible step backwards imho. I was very happy to leave classic asp behind but in the current implementation of the asp.net mvc pattern you're back to code in your markup, the need to use helpers everywhere, and the lack of virtually any useable server controls.
If you're starting a new project now I'd recommend sticking with asp.net webforms and make use of a the built in asp.net ajax, the toolkit, and jQuery as needed. The asp.net ajax implementation may not be the absolute best, or most efficient implementation, but unless you're getting a million uniques on day 1 or your server is a commodore vic 20 the performance hit isn't going to be that noticeable.
This of course does depend on your project size. If you're starting a 5 year Enterprise level application that expect millions of page views, UpdatePanel might not cut it, but if you're building an average site, throwing up a prototype, or just need to get moving fast, asp.net ajax works perfectly fine and has an extremely low learning curve.
And to be clear, the entire page is absolutely not returned every time an ajax call is made. /Only/ the content for the panel that needs to be updated is sent across the wire. Any http monitor will prove this point. Yes, the page /lifecycle/ is performed, but knowing that you can can build fairly efficient asp.net ajax applications.